We took one last walk along Santana Beach, Jack scattering birds into the air, chasing crabs across the sand. I could walk that beach every morning and never tire of the sight of it. We invited the Australian couple to join us for breakfast. The most interesting people find their way to Rancho Santana.

Our driver gathered us up for the trip to Granada. Along the way, we stopped in Catarina to shop in the stalls and view the Laguna Apoyo from a point so high above it that the air was unusually cool. Laguna Apoyo is a breathtaking tectonic lake that sits far below the local topography. Rising into the sky just beyond Apoyo is the grand Vulcan Mombacho. A rain forest has risen in the four craters that were created when it erupted 20,000 years ago and all are covered with cloud. This type of cloud rainforest is only found on one other spot in the Pacific, and that is on the Maderas Volcano on Isla Ometepe in Lago Cocibolca.

Next, we climbed to the rim of Vulcan Masaya, an active volcano that emits gas and expulses rocks, sand and possibly the bones of virgin sacrifices. If one could imagine the dark afterlife reality, this place would be the entry gate. Signage warned to "limit the length of your visit, aim your car down the volcano, get ready to jump under it for cover", and to "keep away from the area”. A cross stands upon a high knoll at the crater mouth so that those who lost their lives here might be remembered.

We had lunch in a palapa-covered restaurant overlooking Laguna Masaya (a volcanic lake in one of the Vulcan Masaya’s three craters). We are struck by the unspoiled beauty of this magnificent lake. In Nicaragua, nearly every meal is served with plantains, papaya and pineapple. Our lunch platter included plantains smashed and fried and topped with cheese or frijoles rojas, steamed ripe plantains and shaved plantain chips. The papaya grow to incredible sizes and the pineapple flesh is white.

After lunch, we moved on to Granada. The oldest colonial city in the Americas, Granada lies on the shores of Lake Nicaragua. The Vulcan Mombacho and its ever present crown of clouds looms over the crazy, noisy city. We will spend the night at La Gran Francia, a restored architectural jewel that dates back to the founding of Granada in 1524 and located just off the city's main square. The grand staircase was laid in beautiful, hand-painted tile. Our door opened onto an open courtyard and a beautiful swimming pool. La Francia was indeed Gran!

Pony-driven carriages lined up outside and the drivers called to us. We passed up several carriages because the ponies were too thin and choose one with plumper ponies. Our young driver spoke no English but with great emphasis, he told us about the things we were seeing as we toured the city. We passed by Granada's five majestic churches; all dating to the 1500-1600's. The streets were crazy with people, cars, bicycles and motorcycles. It seems that no one spends any time indoors. Every few feet, above the incredible din, we hear “Oh…perrito…bonito” as people saw Jack having himself a pony-drawn carriage ride through the city. Privilegiado perro pasajero.

We end our day at an an Internet café in a colonial building on the square. The sight of Jack causes our waiter to tell us all about his puppy at home. He goes to a computer to view Jack’s website and I snap a photo of him in front of the monitor. This country offers such interesting dichotomies. It was a strange contradiction to be seeing Jack’s homepage as a wooden cart pulled by a tired pony passed the cafe and made its way along the dark street.

Move on to day seven